Monday, January 5, 2015

"ARE PADDLE BLOWOUTS BAD FOR YOUR HAIR?" TAKE THE TEST

by Crystal Styles - Advice Blogger
Public Speaker / Journalist / Columnist / Author
Contributing Writer - Black College Today Magazine
 
Asst. Dir. of Marketing / Social Media Mgr. - Aunt Jackie’s Curls & Coils, Aunt Jackie's Girls, Texture My Way, Organics, Kids' Organics, Africa’s Best, Argan Smooth and more.
To book Crystal for speaking engagements: Submit your request in the "Contact Crystal" form to the right of this post.

WIN A GIVEAWAY!!
What is a healthy pH Balance for Hair? 


BACK IN THE DAY
Do you remember the days when EVERYBODY sat under a hooded dryer with color-coded roller sets, waiting for your relaxed or natural hair to completely dry before combing and styling.  What happened to those days?  Did newer, better drying methods take over? Or did newer, faster drying methods take over with no regard to whether the method(s) are actually healthy for our hair?

BYE-BYE FLYAWAY
What do I mean?  I'm talking about paddle-brush blow drying (or blowouts).  This method gets a thumbs down for me.  Have you ever stopped to think how much of your hair is being pulled, snagged and snapped off while paddling your "WET" mane?  Wet hair is most vulnerable to breakage--did you know? So why are we convinced that it's ok for us or our stylist to pull, tug and rake through our hair with a paddle brush after washing?? Hmm...I hope I have you thinking.  The reason you're probably not paying much attention to your hair flying away in the wind is because you may not see it happening; the blow dryer is usually directed away from your face, as it blows and scatters hair all over the room.  The only way to know the amount of hair you've lost is by sweeping the floor once the paddle drying is done.  But, if you're in a salon where dozens of women are getting the paddle treatment, you'll never know how much of the flyaway on the floor belongs to you.
KNOW THE DIFFERENCE
By no means am I saying everyone must ditch their paddle brush.  Of course, it’s your choice. However, I do believe this drying method is better for straighter hair textures (1s and 2s).  Sorry ladies, paddle drying is just not the healthiest method for 3s and 4s (curly and coily textures), simply because curvier hair strands tend to wrap around each other, especially while wet.  If the hair is not properly detangled and moisturized prior to the paddle blowout, you are more likely to lose more hair, as the brush bristles rake through your tresses in pursuit of a smoother finish.
 
BREAKAGE DOWN - TAKE THE TEST!
Wet Hair: absorbs water and stretches during cleansing.  Water has a pH of 7, neutral.  Normal hair has an acidic pH of about 4.5 or slightly higher, which means that water is more alkali than hair, and therefore causes the hair to be in a more vulnerable state when wet.   This weaker state makes hair more susceptible to breakage or snapping when pulled or snagged during paddle-brush blow drying.

Drier Hair:  when hair is completely or at least mostly dry, it is in a much better condition to withstand combing or brushing.  During this stage, if you prefer using the paddle blowout method for the purpose of elongating and smoothing the hair before styling, you'll stand a much better chance of retaining most of your hair strands (minus natural shedding of about 100 strands per day).  So how do you get dry, elongated tresses without paddling?
 
by USING THE TENSION METHOD
Tension drying is done when hair is finger detangled after being washed and conditioned, then hand stretched to its full length while blowing cool air, from a hand dryer, back and forth along the strands until the hair is completely dry.  This method offers two benefits: 1) wet hair is not snagged and raked with a comb or brush which causes breakage, and 2) it offers stretch for curlies and coilies who prefer a more elongated curl pattern.
 
In my opinion, the Tension Method, for any hair type, is by far better than paddle-brush blow drying. Why? Because raking and snagging your hair can cause damage to hair cuticles & follicles and, in turn, lead to unwanted shedding and thinning.  Although the Tension Method is quite simple, it could be considered time consuming for naturals and professional stylists who may not have a lot of time to spend on one head of hair. But I say, don’t look at it as time wasted or consumed but rather an investment in stronger, fuller hair and healthier follicles in the long run.  

Let me know if these tips are helpful.  Send me a message through the "Contact Crystal" form at the upper right of this post.